Monterey 140 Satellite Receiver

Chaparral Monterey Receivers

Information and Operating Tips

Compiled byAnthony W. Haukap


Programming tips and tricks on how to efficiently use the memory and get the most from your Monterey TVRO satellite receiver.

Master Index



Go HomeSection 1
INTRODUCTION
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This FAQ document is maintained byAnthony W. Haukap

The current version of this FAQ document can always be found on my website at:

While every attempt is made to present accurate data it should be noted that the author makes no guarantee as to the accuracy of any information provided in this document, and is not responsible for any consequences of its use.


1.1 OVERVIEW

These procedures will help you get the most out of your Monterey satellite receiver.

They are a collection of my own experiences of using a Chaparral Monterey Model 70 and a Monterey Model 55.

1.2 CONTACTING CHAPARRAL COMMUNICATIONS

World Wide Web:
http://www.chaparral.net/

Electronic Mail:
Technical Support -tech@chaparral.net
Customer Service -rmichelsr@chaparral.net (Randy Michels)
Engineering -tmuckle@chaparral.net (Tom Muckle)

Telephone:
(408) 435-1530 Technical support hours are from 7:00am to 6:00pm PT.

Fax:
(408) 435-1795

InfoFAX:
(408) 435-3088 -or- (408) 435-1530 For an index, order document number 9000.

Snail Mail:
Chaparral Communications
943 Berryessa Road, #B3
San Jose, CA 95133

Receiver Warranty Service Center:
Birdview Satellite Service
151 East Lexington Avenue
Independence, MO 64050
Tel. (816) 252-2030
Fax (816) 252-2034

1.3 MONTEREY SATELLITE RECEIVERS

1.3a PASSWORDS FOR ALL MONTEREY RECEIVERS

The factory default password for all Chaparral Monterey satellite receivers is [2], [3], [4], [5]. When your receiver asks for a password try the factory default first. If the factory default password does not work, or if you have forgotten the password that you put in, you will need to do a password override (see below).

1.3b PASSWORD OVERRIDE FOR MONTEREY MODEL RECEIVERS

To override or delete the password on Monterey receivers, when you are asked for the password, instead of entering any numbers, press [SATELLITE], [MSG], [TEXT]. This will permanently remove the password from the Monterey. If you desire the password protection, you will have to go back in the Receiver Setup and re-enter another. If you have tried the password overrides, but everything is still coming up locked, it may be necessary to master clear your receiver (see below).

1.3c MASTER CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS FOR MONTEREY RECEIVERS

RECORD THE FOLLOWING ITEMS BEFORE PERFORMING A MASTER CLEAR

  • East/West dish limits
  • All satellite names, dish count, & format
  • Video frequency shift (C & Ku band)
  • Polarity shift
  • Any changes you have made to:
      a. Favorite channel menu
      b. Audio subcarriers
      c. Transponder frequency, bandwidth, TI filters, etc.

    For Monterey 35,50/55,70,95/95,100c Receivers:

  • Move the dish to the 5000 position - this is usually the west limit. The reason for doing this is that the Monterey will default to 5000 when it's first power up after a master-clear and expects this to be the west limit. If you have a very high count acuator (high pointing accuracy) you might want to point the dish due south (half way point between east and west travel) this will allow your satellite position count to go range from 0000 to 9999.

  • Unplugging the receiver and reconnecting the AC power, then turn the receiver on using the front panel power key. This performs a restart on the receiver memory system.

  • From the standby mode (off), press and hold on the:
    Model 35: Master Clear button on the rear panel.
    Models 50-95: The [ENTER] and [VOLUME UP] keys on the front panel.
    Model 100c: The [MUTE] and [VOLUME UP] up keys on the front panel.

  • Continue holding the keys, then press and release the front panel power key to turn the receiver power back on.

  • Continue holding the keys until "MASTER CLEAR" is displayed on the front panel. This should only take a few seconds.

  • You must now restore the database from the list you made of programmed items.

    The receiver is now restored to the factory database, any custom programming you have done will have been lost. The factory default password is [2], [3], [4], [5].

    1.3d CLEARING TIMER EVENTS FOR MONTEREY RECEIVERS

    You cannot stop an event once it starts. If the hours have been set incorrectly, i.e. 60 hours, the timed event must end before other events can happen. The easiest way to cancel the event is to set the year ahead and save it. Then go back and reset the year to the correct date. This will cancel out the timed event and allow others to work again.

    1.4 CURRENT EPROM VERSIONS

    To find out if you have this revision, go to MENU 6 , move the cursor to the line that says ON SCREEN PART NUMBER and press enter. Look only at the first 6 digits in the long number that comes up at the bottom of the screen (ie. M55-123456xxxxxxxxxxxx).

    Monterey 50-95:
    020104 October 1994 (REV F2)
    December 1996

    EPROM updates are available through Chaparral sales.

    1.4a KU BAND FORMATS INCLUDED IN EPROM

    In addition to the FOUR GHZ format used for C-band each EPROM includes several Ku-band formats.

    KU Format '91 DB '93 DB '96 DB
    ANIK ALT X X X
    ANIK SPLIT X X X
    GSTAR 32 X X X
    GSTAR 16 X X
    HUGHES 48 S X X
    SATCOM-K 32 X X X
    SATCOM-K 16 X X X
    SATCOM-K 48 X X
    SBS-20 X X X
    SBS-10 X X
    SBS 22 X
    SBS-14 X X
    SBS 19 X X
    SPACENET 12 X X X
    SPACENET 6 X X
    TELSTAR48 S X

    There are 12 Ku band formats in the current (12/96) EPROM.

    1.4b SATELLITE NAMES IN EPROM

    The current EPROM (12/96) has 25 satellite names available. The following names are listed in the default database:

      SPACENET
      SATCOM
      GE-1
      GALAXY, GALAXY 4, GALAXY 7
      TELSTAR, TELSTAR401, TELSTAR402
      GSTAR
      SBS
      ANIK E1, ANIK E2
      MORELOS
      SOLIDARIDAD
      SAT1, SAT2, SAT3, SAT4, SAT5, SAT6 SAT7, SAT8, SAT9, SAT10

    1.5 MONTEREY SPECIFICATIONS

      RF:
          (External IF):
            Input Frequency (C/Ku):  950-1450 MHz
            Input Impedance:  75 Ohm
            Input Level:  -60 to -20 dBm
            Bandwidth:  500 MHz
            Connectors (2):  Type "F", female
          (Internal IF):
            IF Frequency:  70 MHz
            IF Bandwidth:  Switchable 14, 20, 26 & 36 MHz @ -3dB,
                           Gaussian Skirts
            Image Rejection:  30 db typical, 20 minimum
            Threshold Level:  Better than 8dB C/N
    
      Video:
            De-emphasis:  CCIR 405-1, 525 lines
            Frequency Response:  10 Hz to 4.2 MHz +0dB/-2dB
            Output Level:  1 V peak-to-peak
            Output Impedance:  75 ohm unbalanced
            Clamping, dispersion, rejection: > 40dB
            S/N:  50 dB min (CCIR weighted @ 16 dB C/N, min 10.7 MHz
                  peak deviation)
            Polarity:  Negative Sync
            Connector:  RCA phone, female
    
      Audio:
            Subcarrier (L or R):  5.0 to 8.5 MHz
            Bandwidth:  130 kHz (narrow), 280 kHz (norm), 500 kHz (wide)
            Modes:  Mono, Discrete stereo
            Frequency Response:  10 Hz to 15 kHz +0dB/-3dB
            De-emphasis:  75 micro seconds
            Output Level: 0dbM (ref 775 mv) +- 2dB @ 75 kHz deviation
                          < 2dB difference between L & R.
            (Record Audio Output Level:  400mv RMS)
            Harmonic Distortion:  1.5% max @ 75 kHz deviation
            Output impedance:  2.2K ohm unbalanced
            S/N:  50 dB minimum (@ 16 dB C/N & 75 kHz deviation using
                  IHF method)
            Connector:  RCA phone, female
    
      Misc:
            Actuator Power: 36 VDC +- 2V
            Sensor input:  Reed switch or Hall-effect
            Polarotor:  +5V DC, .8 to 2.2 ms pulse
            Baseband Output:
              Frequency Response:  10 Hz to 8.5 MHz
              Output:  Switchable between pre-emphasized, de-emphasized
                       unfiltered unclamped, de-emphasized filtered
                       unclamped, de-emphasized filtered clamped.
              Level:  1 V peak-to-peak
              Impedance:  75 ohm unbalanced
              Connector:  RCA phone, female.
            Two-way data link (Monterey-to-Monterey)
              Baud Rate:  9600 baud serial data
    



    Go HomeSection 2
    EFFECTIVE MEMORY USAGE
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    The default database contains many items that you may not be using these may be deleted to free up memory for use by something else. By following these procedures you will provide the most memory available for your custom programming and ensure that none of the default sub-carrier audio setting are stored.

    2.1 DELETING THE DEFAULT SATELLITES

    Start by performing a master-clear as described in this FAQ.

    Set your East/West limits.

    Go to the Satellite definition menu and erase all satellites East and West of your current location.

    Using the Satellite Definition menu add a new satellite - for an example let's add Galaxy-IV C-band.

      Satellite Name: G4
      Format: FOUR GHZ
      Satellite Type: GALAXY 4

    Go to the Satellite/Channel setup menu and set odd numbered channels to Horizontal (101) polarity and even numbered channels to Vertical (172) polarity.

    Change the channel to 24 (CBS NEWSPATH)

    Locate and store G4's position

    Go to Satellite menu and delete the only other satellite in the database besides G4.

    Repeat the same procedure for the rest of the satellites you want entered.

    Using this procedure will guaranty that only the minimal amount of memory is used and no additional audio sub-carriers are stored without your knowledge. Anything that is changed from the default setup will use some memory.

    ITEMS THAT USE MEMORY IF CHANGED

      Video Frequency
      Video Bandwidth
      Video Level
      TI Filters
      Skipped Channels
      Audio Mode
      Audio Left/Right
      Audio Bandwidth
      Audio Level

    ITEMS THAT DO NOT USE ADDITIONAL MEMORY IF CHANGE

      East/West Dish Limits
      Dish Position
      Polarity
      Favorite Channel Groups
      Favorite Channels
      Satellite Name

    2.2 DELETING AUDIO SUB-CARRIERS

    You may delete audio sub-carriers that you are no longer using or don't want to provide additional memory for storing custom programming.

    Select the satellite and channel on which the audio subcarrier is located and select the subcarrier you wish to delete.

    Go to the Audio Menu the tuning values should be displayed for the subcarrier you wish to be deleted.

    Set the mode to STEREO (even if it's a mono signal)

    Tune both the LEFT and RIGHT Frequencies to 6.80 MHz.

    Set the stereo/mono mode to MONO.

    Set the Audio Bandwidth to NORMAL.

    Set the Audio Level to NORMAL.



    Go HomeSection 3
    MISCELLANEOUS TIPS
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    SETTING POLARITY

      Option 1
      Move the dish off-satellite, just until you loose the picture, and tweak the polarity setting for minimum interference from an adjacent satellite with opposite polarity. This works because the antenna-gain pattern is very steep as you get the polarotor to 90-degrees away from the signal. In this case, you're trying to cancel an adjacent signal, rather than maximize the local signal.

      Option 2
      Adjust for the WORSE signal on an even transponder, then use this polarotor setting for odd transponders (opposite polarity) and vice versa. The theory is that the antenna pattern has a very steep null, and a very broad maximum. (I prefer to use this method as it seems to produce the most accurate results)

    SETTING VIDEO BANDWIDTH

      C-BAND transponders on all domestic satellites are always 36 MHz wide, the Monterey uses a default setting of 26 MHz. I set the all the non-encrypted active channels on C band to 36 MHz - doing this however uses some memory - it would be far better if the default stored in the EPROM was 36 MHz for the FOUR GHZ format. The exception to this is some of the weaker Atlantic satellites (ie. Intelsats) where a narrow bandwidth setting helps to clean up the video signal. For VC2 encrypted channels setting the video bandwidth to 36 MHz does not seem to make a difference.

      KU-BAND transponders vary in there bandwidth - in general most full transponder work good with a 26 or 36 MHz settings and most half-transponders work well with a 14 or 20 MHz bandwidth setting. You will need to adjust this on a per channel basis, as opposed to per satellite, because transponders on any given Ku stallite can vary between half and full transponder.

      TI-FILTERS can also be used to further narrow the video bandwidth on weak satellites. But sometimes they tend to add more noise to the picture.

    EXTENDING VIDEO FREQUENCY RANGE
    By using the video shift feature in the receiver setup menu you can adjust the video frequency +/- 99.9 MHz which means that you can tune C band 3.6001-4.2999 GHz and Ku band 11.6001-12.2999 GHz.

    LOCKING MEMORY
    Setting the memory lock on will prevent accidental changes to be made to the database (which use memory). It will also lock the channel that was last active on all the satellites - this will be the channel that will be restored when returning to that particular satellite. To make any changes the memory lock will need to be turned off.

    USING RECORD OUTPUT
    The record output will provide video and audio of the last channel you were on when the receiver is turned-off (stand-by mode). This works only when turned-off by the UHF/IR remote, if turned-off at the front panel the record output is disabled and displays snow.

    BASEBAND OUTPUT
    Use the baseband output to connect to the video input of your television or monitor in lieu of the main video output. The baseband output will provide on-screen-menus (OSR), and does not limit and filter the video signal the way the main video output does, this may result in a cleaner, crisper video signal since the signal does not run through additional (unnecessary) circuitry.

    DON'T USE AUTOTUNE TO LOCATE A SATELLITE
    As the autotune function moves the dish, the dish will oscillate for a few seconds after movement stops, and the autotune function doesn't wait long enough for these oscillations to settle down to decide which signal strength is the best. You have to look at the signal strength numbers on the screen for several seconds after the dish stops moving and average them for a best value.

    LOCATING C/KU SATELLITES
    The best was to add a new satellite to the database, if it's a C/Ku band satellite is to locate and store the Ku band side of the satellite first - then add the C band side. Doing this will ensure that the position stored is centered on the satellite, as the beamwidth of Ku band is 1/3 that of C band (12 GHz vs. 4 GHz).

    LOCATING C BAND SATELLITES
    The best way to locate a C band only satellites is to locate the satellite then move the dish east until you just loose the signal - remember the dish count (ie. 5000) then move the dish west until you loose the signal again - remember the west dish count (ie. 5020) then add the two numbers (5000+5020=10020) divide the result by 2 (10020/2=5010) and the center will be the location of the satellite. This procedure isn't necessary for locating Ku band satellites as there beam width is quite narrow (1/3 that of C band) all you have to do is watch the signal strength and peak for the highest reading.

    LOCATING SATELLITES WITHOUT ACTIVE VIDEO
    Tune to a known frequency on that particular satellite, then go to the approximate position. If the satellite is turned on that transponder will produce a signal level on the meter, even if no video is being transmitted - then all you have to do is watch the signal strength and peak for the highest reading.

    TIMER EVENTS - Alternate Use
    You can use the timer events as a security measure - by setting the dish to move between satellites several time a day while your away it will look like someone is home operating the dish. This works because if you see the dish changing positions throughout the day you will assume that there must be someone home watching TV!

    ADJUSTING/REALIGNING THE DISH
    The Monterey has a built-in signal strength meter that can help you adjust your dish. Go to the Satellite/Channel setup menu and move the cursor to any position (ie. video frequency) that displays on the last line of the screen the signal strength - this will be a 4 digit number with a bar graph to the right of it (ignore the bar graph as it is too hard to read with any accuracy). What you will want to do is take a TV out to the dish while you're re-aligning by connect a coax cable long enough to reach the dish outside to the RF output on the back of the Monterey receiver and set to VHF RF channel to either 3 or 4. The TV can be something small like a Sony Watchman all your interested in is seeing the on-screen-displays (OSD). Always try to use only the Ku band satellites to adjust or realign the dish. The best way to do this is to make sure the satellite is crossing near equator when your adjusting using the latest NORAD TLE's elements - available fromT.S. Kelso's Homepage. Since all satellites have some inclination (nort/south movement) by using a satellite tracking program with current TLEs you can be sure that the satellite is in the "box" and not at it's maximum inclination when your adjusting your dish - this is particularly important for a dedicated dish installation, where you set a dish to look only at one satellite. Once you track the dish perfectly on Ku band, your C band tracking will also be perfectly tracked as well. Never use any of the inclined satellites to adjust the dish even with the latest TLE file as these inclined satellites move way too fast in a north-south direction to produce acceptable results.

    CONVERTING MOTOR COUNTS TO DEGREES
    If your dish uses a linear actuator to move the dish the motor count numbers between degrees will vary as the dish moves east to west. A horizon to horizon will keep the same ratio between motor count and degrees throughout the entire satellite arc. However you can use the same method for locating a given satellite longitude.

       (pos1 - pos2)
      --------------- (deg1 - deg3) = pos3
       (deg1 - deg2)
    

    UNINTERRUPTABLE POWER SUPPLY (UPS)
    The Monterey line of satellite receivers use the Intel 8088-2 CPU (4.77 or 6.0 MHz) just like the IBM-XT computers of the early 1980's. Providing the receiver with clean filtered continuous power will ensure that no problems arise because of surges/dirty power. A 1200VA UPS unit will give you several hours in stand-by mode - plus it will give you the ability to move the dish in a power outage, should high winds or a thunderstorm develop you can move the dish to a safe position - for a linear actuator fully retracted provides the strongest position, a horizon to horizon mount is best pointed 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the direction of the wind (smallest profile facing wind velocity direction) this "storm" position is particularly important for solid dishes. Alternatively, for horizon-to-horizon mounts is to point the dish at the ground to reduce the change of the LNBs being damaged by a nearby lightening strike.

    KEEPING THINGS COOL
    Providing good air flow through and around the receiver is a must to obtain maximum performance and life. You can mount a 2.5" 12 volt computer type fan inside the Monterey receivers case to ensure good ventilation of the receiver. This fan should run continuously, although there is slightly less heat generated when in stand-by mode. One place to mount this fan is, if looking at the front of the receiver, the front-left corner just in front of the power supply, to the left of the main PC board. Mount the fan so it pulls as much air as possible through the receiver.

    PROTECTING AND HIDING THE DISH
    Almost anything that will hide a dish from view will also block the signal. However, there are several third party companies which sell concealment products for the dish, usually in the form of a fake boulder or patio umbrella... although, having a large boulder in your back yard might look even more out of place! The patio umbrella especially with a smaller dish (about 7') looks very realistic when a table and a few chairs are palced around it. The umbrella also protects the dish surface from hail damage as well. But the downside to the umbrella is that snow (and rain?) can more easily accumulate on its surface and farther reduce the received signal strength.

    Also, with the little DBS style dishes, some people have reported hiding them inside a plastic (vinyl) garbage can (the *really* cheap kind that have very thin sides), or even a garbage bag, without too adverse an effect on signal strength, once again having a garbage can or bag permanently installed in your yard might not be the look you intended! The garbage can may actually work very well; what you want to do is cut the bottom out of the trash can, install the trash can lid in it’s normal position and then slip the entire trash can over the dish. You’ll need some way of securing the trashcan to keep it from being blown around in strong wind gusts, but if the dish is mounted close to the side of the garage you may be able to live with this look!

    Mounting the DBS/Ku dish inside a greenhouse or the house pointed through a south facing window or skylight has been reported to work in some cases. The type of glass matters enormously, with 3/16" single-pane Plexiglas being the most favorable, single-glazed glass much less so, and double-glazed windows not working at all. Even if this does work, it will knock the signal strength back dramatically, so it should only be done when there are no other avenues to explore. If the glass contains any sort of heat reflective layer or coating, ("Low-E" glass) it may block the satellite's signal entirely.

    REMOVING SNOW
    Commercial satellite dishes have an enclosed back area with either a gas or electric heater to keep the dish surface warm, these work extremly well to keep snow and ice off the dish, however this arrangement does not work with a mesh dish surface! The snow layer itself usally does not degrade a C-band singal very much, but the weight of the snow is usally enough to move the dish slightly off the arc a sufficient amount to degrade the received signal. Ku-band signals are effected to a much greater extent by the snow layer and weight.

    One solution for the snow and ice problem is to point the dish at the ground if you know a snow is coming and have a horizon-to-horizon mount, but if you want to watch satellite TV this is not a possible solution.

    Another solution is to let the snow build up and then take a broom and sweep the snow out of the dish, this works okay for removing snow but not ice... provided you have someone willing to go outside to sweep the dish out!.

    What you really need to do is heat the surface of the dish to prevent snow or ice from accumulating in the first place. This can be done quite easily with "heat tape" or "pipe wrap" found in your local hardware store. Since snow usually only occurs at higher lattitudes you may only need to heat the lower half of the dish surface, but if you experience a good deal of blowing snow you will probably want to go ahead and heat the entire dish surface to some extent (maybe reduce the amount of heat tape on the upper half of the dish). You may need to do a little experimenting to determine what pattern and how much "heat tape" to use to melt the amount of snow you receive in an "average" snowfall. Always apply the heat tape on the backside of the dish whenever possible. A pie shape pattern (dividing the dish into 8 wedges) might work well if you are doing only the lower half of the dish, whereas a spiral pattern might work better if you plan on doing the entire dish surface. You may also need to disable the built-in thermostat controls, since they usually turn off at 35 deg F.

    When snow or ice is expect or forecasted, turn the heat-tape on a good 2-4 hours in advance of any participation to give the dish surface a chance to warm up.

    PAINTING THE DISH
    Any kind of exterior grade paint made for metal may be used. The most popular choice of color ranges from black, to dark-gray, to camouflage! Many recommend to stay away from white (or any light colored) paint, as white tends to reflect the sun’s energy (heat) into the feedhorn, possibly increasing the heat at the focal point and reducing the life the electronics.



    Go HomeSection 4
    TVRO FORMULAS
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    4.1 FOCAL LENGTH

    Measure diameter of dish, square that figure. Find the depth of the dish, multiply by 16. Divide the squared diameter by the depthx16 and you will have your focal length - measured from the hub of the dish to 1/4" (0.25") inside the feedhorn throat.

      Example: dish diameter: 120" ^2 = 14400
      dish depth: 21.5" x 16 = 344
      divide: 14400 / 344 = 41.86" focal length

    4.2 CALCULATE AZIMUTH AND ELEVATION

    LOdish : Dish Longitude
    LOsat: Satellite Longitude
    LAdish : Dish Latitude
    East, North are positive directions

    Azimuth = arctan[ tan(LOdish-LOsat)/sin(LAdish) ] + 180 (degree)

    for elevation it is better to use an temporary variable, say B:

    B = arccos[ cos(LAdish)*cos(LOdish-LOsat) ] and Elevation = arctan[ (cos(B)-0.15126)/sin(B) ]



    Go HomeYEAR 2000 INFORMATIONGo Top

    This information pertains to the Monterey 35 & 30, Monterey 55 & 50, Monterey 70, Monterey 95 & 90, Monterey 100C satellite receivers with on screen part nuber 020104 or less. To find out which version you have, go to MENU 6 , move the cursor to the line that says ON SCREEN PART NUMBER and press enter. Look only at the first 6 digits after the M95- in the long number that comes up at the bottom of the screen. If it reads 020105, then you already have the current version (the Y2K fix) which was released in December of 1999. If these first 6 digits is a number lower than 020104 you'll need the new eprom kit that fixes the Y2K problem.

    If you have one of these systems and use the timer functions at this time you probably already know that the timers are not working properly. Everything else works, aside from the timer nothing else is day/date dependent. The problem is that as the year rolled from 99 to 00 and the day changed from Friday to Saturday the Monterey receiver change the day to Sunday January 1, 00. The common fix (workaround) of changing the date to 72 doesn't work for this firmware version, I have found that setting the year to 56 *seems* to work (also year 28 appears to work) properly... that is until the updated eproms arrive!

    The following text is fromChaparral's web site:

      This is the complete list of Chaparral Communications Satellite Receivers and the Year 2000 compliance information. We hope this information answers all of your questions.

      The following Chaparral Communications Satellite Receivers and productsare fully Y2K compliant and will not require any adjustments or updates:

      Monterey 100c plus, M200, M140, M115, CR10, Sierra III, Cheyenne IR/D, Sierra II, Sierra II Plus, Cheyenne International, and Monterey 100C PC Controller Software.

      The following Chaparral Communications Satellite Receiversare not Y2K compliant:

      Monterey 35 & 30, Monterey 55 & 50, Monterey 70, Monterey 95 & 90, and Monterey 100C

      The problem with these satellite receivers, is that the calendar date will move ahead 2 days on January 1, 2000.

      You cannot manually change the date. This problem will not effect the normal viewing operation or the clock function of the satellite receivers. It only affects the programmed time events when using the Timer Menu.

      To make these satellite receivers Y2K compliant, you need to change the EPROM's which have been released and will recognize the Year 2000 rollover and Year 2000 Leap Year. Your approximate cost is $57.00 per satellite receiver.

      You can order the EPROM's by contacting:

        Birdview Satellite Service
        151 East Lexington Ave
        Independence, Missouri 64050
        Phone 816-252-2030 
        
        Contact Chaparral Communications Engineering at
        voice 408-453-3030 or Fax 408-453-3052.